Just Roll With It

May and June are my last 2 months here in Togo, and as part of me feels like I’m speeding along the road with my sight set on the US and the future, another part feels like my speeding is out of control and I only have short term vision- just looking at one bump in the road right in front of me.  Because, when you have so much going on around you here in Togo, how can you focus on your future in the US, which seems like a world away?  Anyway, many days these two aspects seem to be colliding, and I can just sortof roll with it.

MAY 1^st: LABOR DAY

Labor Day, like last year, was a super holiday.  Everyone loves labor day here.  The whole town and nearby surrounding villages come to Kante to participate in a parade, which features practically every single person- every ethnic group, every village, every organization and group no matter how active or inactive, marches across the soccer field.  People dance, people drink, and people eat.  Everyone gets together with their coworkers and feasts.  If an “office” is going all out, everyone will buy the same fabric and make outfits to wear for this day, so that everyone in the “office” has the same uniform.  I arrived at the soccer field late, hoping that I wouldn’t be as noticed as usual, and avoiding any “waiting for hours and marching across the soccer field in the hot sun” that may be expected.  But, of course I was not unnoticed, being the only white person there, but luckily no one asked me to participate in the parade.  Instead, I spoiled my friend’s daughter, buying her a bag of cold juice and letting her take a couple pictures.  Then, we met up with my friend and the other staff members of AED to eat and drink and dance.  After we were stuffed, I went with another friend to a bar where more people were dancing.  A group of older women were going from table to table, dancing the traditional dance.  An older lady, her face lined with wrinkles, pulled me from my chair and into the dancing group.  She started doing the traditional dance, characterized by really quick, almost jumping, movements, with arms going in various directions.  Then she stopped while I tried to mimic her moves, and as I stopped she started again.  We went on like this for a while, with the group of ladies cheering us on;  It was almost like a dance off – although I’m certain she won. 

COS CONFERENCE and GOODBYEs

Close of Service “COS” is the final step of a Peace Corps Volunteer’s service.  It stands, ominously or impatiently (depending on the day), at the end of your service like the ribbons of a finish line.  When you’re having a bad day, you fantasize about the day you COS and return to America.  When you’re having a good day, you consider extending, pushing your COS date into the future, so that you can stay in Togo forever-or just longer.  So, when COS Conference arrived, everyone was in a strange limbo, ready to leave Togo and go home, but at the same time not ready to leave Togo and go home.  During the conference, we had sessions about job-hunting, resumes, and all the paperwork that must be done before you leave the country.  It was so a wake-up call to reality: that, whether we like it or not, we will be leaving our little communities in Togo- and returning to the US to face our dreams(friends, family, food…), and our forgotten responsibilities (9-5 jobs, resumes, health insurance..).  COS conference was the last time we were all together as a group- and following the conference, people started to trickle out of Togo.  We had already said goodbye to Stacie with a rice castle vs. bottlesaurus party, and we began to say goodbye to others, who we may or may not see again.

PROMOHANDICAP – PUMP

I am totally in love with this PromoHandicap project; Actually, I have a love hate relationship with it.  Hate, because all the little Togo things that are bound to go wrong and make things difficult seem to be magnified when you’re actually trying to manage something you really care about.  And Love, because everyone in the PromoHandicap team is amazing, and going through every part of this project together-both frustrations and joys- has brought me to my favorite parts of Togo.  The first part of the project involves all the health aspects of the school (building a water pump for water access, building a shower are for personal hygiene, and latrines for- obvious other hygiene.  Although we started this project for the school and the students who are deaf and blind, we have found that there is a huge secondary (unintentional but greatly needed) community who will benefit: the people of Deoute, where the school will be built.  The families of Deoute are textbook examples of poverty and all the health and other negative aspects that go with it.  The chief lives in a mud hut, with two wives and about 13 young children.  The kids have swollen bellies and some have bald spots, skin rashes, and reddish hair along with their scrawny faces, arms, and legs.  The dogs are tiny, almost like toys, and incredibly skinny.  Dirt is everywhere and the naked kids, when not playing with the dirty dogs or machetes or whatever else they can find, just sit and hang out in the dirt, watching us as we come to discuss plans with their father, the chief.  The older children walk away to pee and poop, but the youngest of them usually just goes wherever he is, whether it’s on the flat rock where they prepare food, or in the middle of the meeting area.  Their water comes from the muddy stream nearby, and I mentally cringe every time his wife brings out a cup of water, hoping I won’t be expected to drink it.  So, when the team of water pump technicians began the construction of a water pump (after an insane amount of delay), I was thrilled.  Now, this community (as well as the future PromoHandicap school) will have access to clean water.  Little by little, I hope this project will bring benefits to Deoute.  A week or so after they finished construction, we inaugurated the pump.  Everyone- women, men, children, dogs- brought benches and chairs and came to the pump to celebrate.  Alisha and I talked about hygiene and did a couple hygiene activities with them, and then we talked about how to use and care for the pump, and then everyone said a million thank yous to everyone else, before drinking tchouk (local beer) and celebrating till dusk arrived.  

PROMOHANDICAP- building SHOWERs

My alarm has been set for 4:50AM for a couple weeks now.   Every morning I’ve gotten up, had some coffee (while reviewing MCAT stuff), and then admired the sunrise while biking off to Deoute, the small village where we will be constructing the school.  One of these mornings I arrived to find that the promised sand had not yet been ramassed by the community, and the construction team who arrived shortly after and who needed sand to make bricks, would not be able to start.  We went to the talk to the chief and after a lot of discussion and questioning realized that the early rainy season this year meant that everyone spent all their time in the fields farming; no one had time to get sand.  It was obvious that my schedule (I had to finish the shower construction soooon since I would be leaving Togo soon) did not correlate with their schedule at all, which is fine, but incredibly frustrating.  So, after freaking out a bit, Tcheou (the president of promohandicap) grabbed a bucket and headed to the stream, ready to collect sand.  We all followed, and soon our group of five collected enough sand  to get the construction team started.  But it is seriously hard work! – it doesn’t sound difficult- walking a quarter mile to the stream, filling a bucket with sand, placing it on your head so that it hurts least, and then walking back-but over and over again it starts to get painful!  (we later did this with really big bricks- which was the worst- at one point I dropped my brick and it was too heavy to pick back up by myself)  But, call me crazy- but part of me actually really enjoyed this part- I felt like I was really involved and determined- “I am going to get this school built if I need to carry every last brick there on my own head”  of course, I also think we may have been delirious from fatigue, as Alisha and I kept on laughing randomly as we were walking. 

TOGO IS KICKING ME OUT

The past couple weeks, everything I own has become broken or lost.  Maybe not everything, but certainly enough to catch my attention.  First, my refrigerator broke.  No big deal, everyone lives without a refrigerator, and I mainly just use it during hot season or when I have veggies that tend to spoil.  Then, the screen on my camera broke.  After 2 years and much abuse by everyone, the screen suddenly broke when I sat on it.  But, it still worked- I just couldn’t see the pictures I was taking.  Then- in one week, I lost my computer cord, lost my phone charger, my camera completely broke, and my gas (for cooking) ran out.  Luckily I was able to trace my computer cord back to a town in the south and with the help of some other peace corps volunteers, was able to get it back.  But, my gas is a pretty significant thing to run out.  My neighbors, more often than not, share their food with me, but never on a schedule.  Previously, if they shared their food, I would eat that, and if they didn’t, I would cook something.  But now, I need to plan ahead and by street food if I think they won’t share that meal.  It often ends up being that I buy street food on the days when they share food, so I end up eating 2 dinners and going to sleep stuffed beyond capacity, or I won’t by street food and they won’t share, so I go to sleep slightly hungry.  There is no medium.  As I’m writing this, I’m hoping they have extra corn mush pate to share, because there was a huge thunderstorm, so there are no street vendors selling street food.  If not I will just eat some amazing granola bars that my amazing parents sent – THANK YOU!!!   

RAINY SEASON with GOATS

Rainy season came early this year, with giant storms soaking Kante in May, as opposed to last year’s mid-late June.  The first storms are like a memory – a friend you haven’t seen or heard from in awhile.  The distance noise of rain smacking tin roofs from across town, and then the sudden strong winds that slam doors shut and cause everyone to run to the nearest shelter, all leading up to the downpour- so loud that your voice can’t be heard and so fast that you can fill up a 15 liter bucket with rain water in a matter of minutes.  This year, my neighbors have begun raising goats, so there are always baby goats running and  jumping around.  If I’m not paying attention, one will just come right into my house while I’m working.  When the rains come, the goats completely freak out.  They start sprinting in all directions, screaming like toddlers in the midst of a temper tantrum, in an effort to escape rainstorm, that I’m convinced they imagine to be the end of the world.  The kids in the compound have the responsibility to ensure all the goats get into this small shelter during the rainstorm.  But the goats, not realizing they have their own rain shelter, sprint around the compound like a chicken with its head cut off, eventually aiming for any kind of shelter they can find, often my house.  The kids are sprinting after them, jumping and lunging, trying to grab a leg or torso, before the downpour starts.  Sometimes they catch one, bring it to the goat shelter, only to have the goat run away again, leading to another extreme game of “catch the goat”.  If the kids have no luck at all, like today, the downpour will start before all the goats are caught, and they will be forced to chase the goats in the pouring rain.

WHOA MY CAT JUST JUMPED SUPER HIGH AND CAUGHT A MOTH IN MID-FLIGHT!

TCHEOU’s WIFE

Tcheou, the incredibly motivated president of PromoHandicap is one of the most amazing Togolese men I know.  He is respectful to women, believing that we (women) are smart and useful beyond just cooking and cleaning.  In fact, his daughter is the top of her class in the physics and mathematics track!  This is amazing, because girls are soo underrepresented in the science/math area.  Most teachers automatically just put them in the arts/linguistics tracks.  Of course this is not bad in itself, but a girl should be given the opportunity to pursue science if she wants.  Anyway, his daughter wants to be a physics professor and I am so proud of her.  Anyway, the other day, Alisha called me, saying that Tcheou’s wife had been struck by a car and was in the hospital.  She has a head injury and two completely broken ankles that require surgery to be fixed. 

GIRLS SCHOLARSHIP

Like I’ve mentioned in previous posts, I’ve been working with Shippensburg University Honors Program.  They raised $1300 just to help girls succeed in education in Kante!  With this support, we were able to create a high school girls scholarship for this coming school year, as well as buy some well-needed books and notebooks to help them study.  Each girl interested in the program wrote an essay about what their dream is.  There were so many different responses:  mid-wife, physics professor, flight attendant, international business woman, religious sister, teachers, researchers….   There was enough money that all the girls who applied were able to receive the scholarship, and there will be money left over.  So, at the commencement of the school year, if a girl who has need wants to enter high school, she be able to talk to another peace corps volunteer here and get financial assistance.            

PREPARING FOR HOME

So, I go home on July 6.  It’s weird.  I have a plan, but at the same time feel like everything in my plan is a priority and feel like om sprinting from one thing to the next in an effort to ensure everything will be ok.  First of all, I’m taking my dog Poppy home.  Arriving here, I didn’t think I would ever take a dog home, but after spending every single day – the highest of the days and lowest of the lows - with Poppy, I have become seriously attached, and can’t stand to consider his fate as grilled market meat if I leave him here.  So, it’s been a bit of a nightmare working out a flight to get him home – flights are already confusing and difficult to plan here- where most agencies and airlines only accept cash.  Luckily, I worked it all out, and now just need to get all his shots and stuff a couple days before leaving.  Secondly on my list of “stressed out”-ness is the MCAT.  I’ve been studying basically since I got here, but as the day approaches, and I realize how difficult it is to take online practice exams from Togo- I’ve become stressed.  I’ve realized I’m not used to sitting in front of a computer or thinking of physics/bio for long intense periods of time, and I’m worried how that will affect my performance.  Thirdly – med school appplications.  The applications became available May 31, but it is so annoying and expensive doing everything from Togo…grr..  And finally, job- I need to find some type of work between the time I get home to the time I hopefully enter med school.  So, that’s my list.  I’m stressed with this stuff- I feel like the “US” side of me and the “Togo” side of me has a billion things to do these next couple weeks.  Who knew saying goodbye and saying hello at the same time could be so stressful.  But, I think the most important part is to just realize that these next weeks might be tough and challenging, but exciting - and I’m just going to roll with it.  

Rollercoaster at Sunset

I did not ride a rollercoaster in Togo, nor would I if one was available.  (Because I probably would not trust its stability).  But, this month reminded me of riding a rollercoaster at sunset- a fun, non-stop, everything-at-once ride, where once in a while, you get a lag that is just long enough to take in the world: earth and sky.  April was wonderful; just like riding a rollercoaster at sunset.  I was so busy, and so much happened, but everything was good (except for this weird abscess on my foot).

THE HIKE

There’s a small pathway from Travis’s village to Niamtougou, a large town with a super duper market.  You walk from his house, to the mountain a couple miles away by the waterfalls, then ascend and descend two mountains, cross a stream and reaching the road.  It’s a difficult hike, but with gorgeous views, and I had wanted to hike it since Travis first mentioned it about a year ago.  So, one day, early in the morning, three of us (Travis, me, and Travis’ friend) started the hike, crossing the barren fields, and hiking the two mountains.  The first mountain is very steep and rocky.  It’s like you’re climbing up a cliff and if you misplace your foot, you’ll just tumble the whole way down to the valley.  As we were climbing, a group of women came up behind us.  They were all barefoot and carrying huge basins filled with stuff on their heads.  And they passed us!  I can’t imagine doing that – climbing the mountains with just my own weight was strenuous enough (like Old Rag-if you’ve ever hiked in the Appalachians) – but then to do that while carrying a heavy load on your head!  And barefoot!  And maintaining balance on the cliff! – and for the women who had babies- carrying the baby on your back! Wow.  We made it to the market at about 9am, and spent the whole day just exploring the market, eating market food, and drinking lots of cokes (it was sooo hot and sunny).  A couple of Travis’s friends and a couple volunteers met up with us, and as heat of the direct sun started to subside, we left the market to go back to Travis’.

The way back was gorgeous again, but much more difficult.  After taking in the view at the top, we began the descent down the steep rocky mountain.  It took a lot of time and concentration; I would not want to do that at night or in the rain.  We finally reached flat ground and started making our way through the barren fields dotted with village huts.  Soon, though, we heard this huge noise coming for the mountains behind us- it reminded me of the rain in Kanté- how you can hear it pounding the tin roofs a mile away before reaching your own roof.  We couldn’t see rain, though, so we didn’t know what it was, but decided to start speed-walking.  The sky was getting darker, and the wind was picking up, like it wanted to rain, but still no rain was in sight.  Soon we realized what the noise was, as a huge gust of wind seemed to push us from behind and then swirl all around us.  I had to close my eyes and cover my mouth and nose with my shirt as I felt dust and dirt and random things hitting my back.  When the wind subsided enough so that I could open my eyes to slits, I saw this strange black cloud of dust moving across the landscape with the wind.  It was weird because it was darker than and separate from the sky.  Some fires had started too and they looked incredibly dramatic against the backdrop of black dust.  I tried to take pictures, but the combination of my inability to see (because my eyes were just barely open), my fear of breaking my camera, and the incredible amount of dust and wind, I think only one picture turned out.  The fires seemed untamed, and you could see the wind pulling the flames into the sky and further into the dark landscape.  We decided to speed walk/ run as best we could with eyes half closed; the sky was getting darker, and the wind didn’t seem to be letting up.  We were about a half mile from Travis’s when a raindrop started to fall here and there.  The small rain with insanely strong winds and dust, moving everything, regardless of whether it’s a tree, leaves, dust, fire, or me – seemed so powerful – It felt like I could just jump and the winds would let me fly.  Luckily, I didn’t decide to jump or try to fly, but just laughed as we ran/walked along the small rocky path towards Travis’s house.  Somehow, the downpour held off for a bit, letting us get to shelter. And not one minute after we arrived at Travis’s did the rain come, pounding on his tin roof.  The three of us cooked a little food (we were starving) and then ate and watched the rain.  You couldn’t even talk because of the tin roof noise.  It was the strangest storm ever.                    

EASTER

Easter here was very busy.  Friday, I went with my friend Pauline (Pauline the runner; I know about 5 different Pauline’s here) to participate in the way of the cross.  This is when you follow the path Jesus took before being crucified, stopping at certain points to remember certain events of the “walk”.  It was noontime when it began, and the sun was directly overhead, and it is the middle of hot season.  I was covered in sweat the whole time.  And the man who played the role of Jesus was carrying a real wooden cross twice his size and the men who played the soldiers were actually whipping “Jesus” with tree branches.  “This isn’t how we did it in Catholic school in the states,” I thought “this is much more intense.”  We walked around town until about 3:30, when we arrived at the Catholic Church and they up righted the wooden cross, and “Jesus’” arms were tied the arms of the cross, and he hung, in the hot sun, for a good 20 minutes.  Then we all went into Church for a short service.

The next day, Saturday, everyone was talking about midnight mass.  So, I decided to get dressed up and go.  But, two hours in, my friend sent someone to get me, telling me to come with her.  So, I left to see what was up, and realized she just wanted someone to go get a cold drink with her.  So we went to get a cold drink.  The next morning, I had to run an errand, and passed by church to see my friend eating at the breakfast porridge stand outside.  “Mafisa!  Bonjour! Come over here and eat with me!” she said “Are you going to church?”  “I don’t know,” I said, “Are you going to church?”  “Yes, I just stepped out for a minute to get something to eat,” she said.  “Ok, well I will wait with you while you eat and then we will go to church together.”  We then went to church, which was completely packed.  She told one of her kids to get off the benches and I took that spot while the kid sat on the floor with the billion other kids.  Everyone in the church was singing and dancing.  The crazy lady who hangs out by the station was there; she danced so much her shirt came off!  (Literally).  At one point, they had collection – when everyone gives a small coin or whatever they can to help the church.  But, this collection wasn’t like the collections I was familiar with in the US.  Everyone had to dance up to the front of the church, drop their coin in the basket, and then dance back.  The mass continued and then my friend asked me what day I was born.  “Friday,” I said. “Ok,” she said, “you go up when they call Friday”.  Everyone started singing and dancing to this song involving the days of the week.  First was Monday, and everyone who was born on Monday started dancing towards the front of the church, where another collection basket waited.  The days of the week continued until they called Friday. “Go!” my friend said, “This is Friday!  This is your day!”  So I grabbed my coin, joined my fellow ‘Friday-born’s, and danced my way up to the front of the church.  At the end of mass, it was announced:  Friday won!  We raised the most money!  The Friday-born who was sitting nearby came up to me “We won!  We are the best!”  Yes, I had no idea I was going to be involved in such a competitive situation when I entered church that morning, but I enjoyed it.  Church was fun, and even though it had been awhile since I’d been in a Catholic mass (and needless to say, this mass was so different than the masses I knew), I could still see the comfortable structure, and it reminded me of home.  After mass, I went to my friend’s house where she gave me a huge plate of food, which looked like it should be eaten over the course of 3 days.  I stuffed all the food in my mouth, even though my stomach was pleading with my brain to stop, because it’s impolite to not finish a meal.  Then I half wobbled (because of my giant full stomach) and half ran (because I thought I was going to poop my pants) back home.  That’s when I discovered my neighbor Clarisse just had a baby!        

CLARISSE’S BABY

Clarisse, my neighbor, had a baby!!!  I was so excited because it seems like she’s been pregnant forever!  I saw her at the Easter vigil (Saturday night) and she was fine; big stomach, smiling face.  And then the next time I saw her she was in so much pain after walking just a few hours after giving birth.  The baby is lovely.  It’s a girl, but they haven’t officially named her yet.  They usually wait awhile before naming babies here.

FIREBALL IN MY HOUSE

One day, some of my favorite English club kids came over.  I was cooking something for everyone when the tube that connects my gas tank (which is inside) to my stove apparatus fell off.  This happens a lot, but I usually just stick it back on and continue my cooking.  But this time, there was fire shooting out.  I couldn’t quite tell where the fire was coming from; it seemed everywhere.  I yelled for Michel, one of my English club kids, while I grabbed a bucket of dirty water, throwing it on the gas tank, which was surrounded in fire.  The flames receded, but a split second later came back!  Michel and the boys came in, and somehow, they pulled the tube (immediate source of the fire) away, allowing me to run up to the gas tank and twist the handle into the “Closed” position.  The fire stopped and we all stared – speechless at my gas tank.  After a minute, everyone started helping to clean up. Some kids started cleaning the kitchen (which was now covered in really gross water) and some started analyzing the gas tank - tube – stove connection.  After everything was clean, and the tube was extra-securely fastened, I finished cooking, and we all ate a well-deserved meal.

THE TUMOR

One day after a morning of helping with baby weighing/vaccinating, I was on my way out of the hospital, saying hi to people and about to get on my bike to leave, when one of the nurses (who I hadn’t seen in a long time) called me from the open window of a hospital room.  “Mafisa! How are you!? Come here!”  When I walked over, I noticed there were a couple other guys who I hadn’t seen in a while, as well as a boy who was lying on the table.  After speaking the standard greetings to everyone, and responding to more jokes about how I should marry a Togolese man and live in Togo forever, I asked why the boy was lying on the table- was he sick.  “The boy has a cyst on his head,” the nurse said, “we are going to remove it”.  “Oh my” I thought “I didn’t think they did surgeries in this hospital.”  “You should sit down and watch!” they said, “take your notebook and write notes and then when you go back to the US you can show the people there what you saw.”  I looked at the kid- he looked scared.  “Courage,” I said the standard thing to say when someone’s going through a tough time or doing something painful.  I grabbed a chair and sat down to watch.  As they prepared by shaving part of his head, I looked around the room, trying to compare this room with hospital rooms in the US.  I was sweating from the heat and the occasional dusty breeze from the two open windows didn’t help the stifling-ness of the room.  Flies were buzzing, zooming around as if this was just another hot room with interesting (for a fly) smells.   Stains covered parts of the floor.  I remembered back in December 2010 when a bus accident brought in so many people, that this same small room was full of blood and stitches and women crying out for Jesus.  Maybe the stains were from that December?  Or maybe another accident.  Anyway, my thoughts were interrupted when they started injecting the local anesthetic.  “Does this hurt” “Yes” “Does this hurt” “Yes” “Does this hurt” “No” “Ok.  It is good. We can begin”.  The nurse with the gloves cuts the boys skin with a razor, as the nurse without the gloves hands over gauze to catch the blood.  The boy moves- trying to bring his hand to his head, as I cringe, and the nurse without the gloves holds down the boys arms.  “It hurts” the anesthetic isn’t working.  They try to inject a little more, but it doesn’t seem to help that much, so they continue cutting, while the nurse constantly holds the boys’ arms down.  Eventually, the anesthetic seems to kick in and the boy calms.  They finish cutting the skin and open the area, looking at the “cyst”.  But, it’s not what they expected; they cannot cut it out.  “This boy must go to Lomé and get a biopsy.  Then they will know if this is a malignant tumor or not.”  “Will he go to get this done?” I ask “Isn’t it expensive?” “It is expensive,” the nurse concludes, while stitching the boy up.  I look at the boy.  He is never going to go to Lomé and get a biopsy.  That is so ridiculously expensive for a Togolese; it’s just out of the question.  And then if it happens to be malignant? – I highly doubt there is any treatment available in Togo, except maybe for the president and his buddies – but for a small unknown village boy?  Why don’t they just laugh in this boy’s face?  Yes, there are treatments – there’s a solution to this medical problem - but not for you, small boy!  And the sad thing is, he probably paid so much to have this small “surgery” done – the gloves, the anesthetic, the syringe; everything must be paid for by the patient.  Life – and death- are viewed so differently here than in the US.  And I think this is the reason why.  There is no money to pay for medical procedures.  So people die.  There’s nothing you can do about it.  In the US people go to all extremes to stay alive, which is good – science and medicine continue to improve the lives of so many people with cures or medications that alleviate symptoms of conditions, infections, etc.. People live longer – and know what to do when they’re sick and how to send death away when it’s knocking on their door.  But sometimes it’s sort of a relief to accept death like it’s done here in Togo.   Accept death and celebrate a life.    

SCARS

One hot and sunny Friday, I went to the market, and ran into my old neighbor and her kids.  I missed having her family as my neighbors, so we sat down at the tchouk stand next to her market table where she sells random things like hot peppers and dried beans, and we drank and caught up with one another.  Somehow we started talking about scaring.  A lot of Togolese you see with have scarring – on their face, arms, hands, ankles, back... all over.  There are different types; some symbolize the ethnicity of the person: whether they are Lamba, Moba, Kabye, or one of the other >40 ethnicities of Togo.  But apparently one type of scarring, as my friend mentioned while she grabbed her 2 year old before he could cause trouble at the tchouk stand, is independent of ethnicity.  Three lines of scarring, she said while pointing them out on her kid, at the eyes, shoulders, elbows, wrists, lower back (and probably some other places I can’t remember), are given to infants to protect them.  According to the story she told me, there is a bird that comes in the night to search for infants and kids.  If the bird finds a baby, he can grab the baby and fly away with it to a sorcerer.  The evil sorcerer will cause bad things to happen (he’ll die or have a bad unhealthy life).  But, if a child has the scars, the bird cannot take him/her.  A few days later, a few hours after Clarisse gave birth to her baby girl (and had already pierced her ears); I asked when the new baby would get the scars.  “No,” Clarisse’s brother said, “She will not be scarred.  In the past, they scared babies, but it was for a superstition.  See my face?  I am not scarred.  We will not scar the baby.”    

PROMOHANDICAP

Things are picking up with PromoHandicap.  The SPA aspect of the project (the hygiene stuff: water pump, latrines, shower area) has already begun because funds, provided by USAID, are already in-country.  The other aspect of the project (school and dormitory buildings) is still waiting on donations.  Please donate! And check out promohandicap.blogspot.com (a link to the Peace Corps donating site can be found there).  It is so much work being involved in every single aspect of the project, but at the same time, it’s thrilling.  
One day last week, our small team composed of Mensa, the blind man, Alphonse, the mason and teacher, Tcheou, the hard-working dedicated president, Alisha and I all gathered under some trees on the site of the future school to build the latrine.  This latrine is different than normal latrines that are built here.  This latrine is super cheap (less than $20.00), and is designed to be moved so that once the hole is full, a tree can be planted.  Because latrines are usually viewed as a status symbol here (if you can afford a big pretty expensive latrine, you’re someone worth knowing), it was a little difficult selling this idea to the group, and it was even more difficult sitting down with the group to read the manual and figure out exactly how we would build it.  After a series of meetings where we spent hours discussing the minute details of how to build the latrine, we gathered all the supplies and began construction.  It was so exciting to see everyone involved and participating, Even Mensa, who’s blind, was able to help, and one of the students who are deaf showed up to help.  Lots of women and men who were passing by stopped to help or bring us some food.  The day was much longer than we expected, but at the end of the day, everyone was so happy to have actually started some type of building.

The pump has not yet been drilled; it should have been completed in April, but problems with the pump team prevented it from happening.  Two of the pump technicians really dislike each other and had middle school-ish drama and fights that someone ended up affected our plan.  Luckily, the boss of the group (an American missionary) just arrived, worked with the team to iron out problems, and planned a day for when the team will come up in May.  

Another aspect of the project involves going around to allllllll the small villages and parts of Kanté.  This is incredibly tiring and exhausting (since we don’t use motos to save money, we end up walking alllll day) Usually we leave the house at like 6 or 7, have a meeting or run an errand, and then start our village hopping.  Arriving at the village, the chief greets us and we sit under a big shady tree waiting for other village members to show up.  Then, we begin “N Kura ya! O we sartia?” “Alafia” “We’re building a school for kids who are deaf and blind for the whole community.  Can you collect some gravel or sand or food to help us with the building process?”  The village discusses what they can do to help are start organizing when/where/how much.  Then, we thank them and leave, continuing to the next.  It reminds me a bit of the Polio vaccination campaigns- how you are so busy you sometimes don’t have time to stop.  But, it’s exciting; every village has been supportive of this project; it’s so cool to literally see how the different parts of the community come together to make this one thing happen.  Food for workers from Tapouta, a truckful of gravel from Maye, sand from Worongo, and then 15 or so other villages, in addition to the schools.      

MEDICAL THING OF THE MONTH: ABSCESS

For Kristine's birthday, a group of volunteers decided to go to the pool.  And at the pool I stepped on something, and immediately pulled the weird white plastic thing out of my foot and forgot about it.  But, the next day, a bump appeared on the bottom of my foot, and within a couple hours it had grown and started throbbing, and swelled the rest of my foot.  The next day I called the med unit and they told me to go get antibiotics.  In Togo, you dont need a prescription for anything, whether its ibuprofen or valium.  So, I got antibiotics, started taking them, and sure enough, after a couple days of  soaking my foot (so much that the infected foot looked like a plump clean cousin to my other foot, which was a typical dirt covered, grossly calloused peace corps foot), my abscess was all better.

Mango Rash

March was hot, but busy.  Hot season is usually the time that most work gets done because no one can work in the fields yet.  I worked with other volunteers on the women's conference, continued work with PromoHandicap, did some random meetings in schools, had a marvelous vacation in Ghana (the land of plenty), and dealt with hot season.  

WOMEN'S WELLNESS AND EMPOWERMENT CONFERENCE (WWEC)

The Women’s Conference took place over a couple days in March and was incredibly busy and stressful but so good.  20-some women came from the northern parts of Togo (Kara and Savannes regions) to learn about self-esteem, family planning, sexual health, nutrition, hygiene, savings and budgeting, gardening and animal husbandry, and so many other things.  My sessions were a nutrition session, an introduction to microbes session, and a “how to negotiate family planning” session.  In addition, I was in charge of the kitchen, along with another volunteer.  This specific job ended up being the most difficult of all. My favorite session was microbes.  I started by having 4 cups of water in the front of the room and 2 volunteers from among the group of women.  I asked them to take some water to drink.  One glass had plain water, one sugar water, one salt water, and one really gross muddy water.  One of the volunteers had picked the salt water (which I made sure was saturated with salt), and her expression after sipping it was hilarious- everyone started laughing; I wish I had a camera.  The meals were the most difficult part of the whole conference.  When making the menu, we wanted to use the same ingredients that almost all women use, but in a different way.  For example, all women know pasta and sauce, and all women know fried tofu (its sold on almost every street corner, so to speak).  But, they never eat tofu that has not been fried.  So, one of our meals was pasta with sauce that contained crumbled tofu (like ground beef).  Anyway, we tried to do similar things with every meal, and the majority of the women like most meals- and all of them understand different ways you can prepare and eat different ingredients to have a more health-conscious diet.  Anyway, the kitchen, on the other hand, was less understanding.  They were not used to being on a rather strict schedule (with an actual time that lunch had to be ready) and then different ways of preparing took incredibly long to explain, because they were accustomed to doing things only one way.  To complicate things further, the main cook was incredibly scared of his boss, a religious sister who was the manager of the whole conference center and lodging.  So anytime we wanted to discuss a meal with him, or just ask if he understood what we were saying, he would say “go talk to the sister”.  One meal in particular was burritos.  Although they had a copy of the menu weeks in advanced and we had asked if they understood things, they apparently still waited until the actual preparation of the meal to really understand.  For the burritos, we used corn flour (which every women uses every day) to make corn tortillas.  However, the kitchen staff did not know how to make corn tortillas.  So, just 3 hours before the meal, I was in the back giving a lesson on how to make corn tortillas.  Luckily I knew how to make them-haha..  I felt bad, because you can only make one at a time, and we needed enough for 40-some people.  But, it ended up working.  Overall, I really liked the kitchen staff and was glad to work with them.  We seemed to be butting heads all the time, because our menu was so strange and specific and they were used to doing the same meals again and again- but I think we both appreciated that the other was also stressed but trying their best.  By the end of the couple days, I just ended up preparing every meal with them, which made it sortof stressful when I had to give presentations at the same time- haha..  But,overall, the conference was great- the women learned a lot, bonded with one another, and it was so good to see all this hard work and stress transform into a successful event.         

GHANA- LAND OF PLENTY

Fellow PCV Kristine and I decided to go to Ghana; it would be my last vacation as a peace corps volunteer.  Our plan was packed: 6 days, 4 towns, and some beach time.  Seeing that this is west Africa, there were plenty of opportunities for massive problems, but somehow we had luck on our side, and coasted through Ghana without problems- until the end.  We planned to cross the Togo-Ghana border in the north, head to Tamale, stay the night in the Peace corps transit house there, travel south to Cape Coast, get a ride to Elmina, and stay there for three nights before leaving for Accra and finally Lome.  Our luck started before the first step, when we found out that the missionaries who live in Kara were already planning to go to Tamale, the first stop.  Tamale is a huge town by Togo standards, and much more developed and organized that towns in Togo.  We stayed in the Peace Corps transit house and met a few Ghana PCVs.  Their house is soo much nicer than any place in Togo.  And Transportation is so much easier that Togo; you don’t need to argue for every single small amount.  The next day, we took a bus down to Cape Coast and then a taxi to Elmina.  Going through the country was interesting; I was continually impressed by the development of Ghana:  the nice paved roads, the houses, the many construction projects.  In Elmina, we stayed at a cute small beach side resort called the Stumble Inn. It was soo cute- and cheap- it reminded me of the Red Monkey Lodge in Zanzibar.  We ate tons of cheese and drank tons of beer and just relaxed (and I studied for the MCAT).  Elmina and Cape Coast are sortof famous for the slave castles which we visited.  They were beautiful- completely gorgeous old intricate castles designed and built by the Portuguese and Dutch and changed by every other nation that at one point had control.  Ironically the Europeans discussed the construction project with the locals and got permission from the local chiefs before construction. The castles were used for trade of goods… and later for trading slaves.  We walked through the rooms, visiting each room where locals were imprisoned, waiting to be sent on a ship to Europe or America.  Women were often raped, and apparently if they were found to be pregnant on the ship, they were tossed overboard and left to drown… because no one would want a slave with a baby.  I specifically remember going into one room.  It was dark and stuffy and hot with rock walls.  Slaves were put in there if they tried to escape- and they were kept their until they died.  Standing in that room, looking at the scratches on the walls, breathing in the stuffy hot air…  it was creepy..and truly sad.  After visiting the slave castles and spending some quality time on the beach, we went to Accra, and finally returned to Lome.  Accra is so frustrating.  Up until that point, we had been having food    

AED

One day at consultations, everyone was laying around fanning themselves, waiting for the doctor to arrive, when a moto drive up and Rabi got off.  The last time I had seen Rabi, she was super healthy, with even a little extra chubbiness to add.  So, expecting the same, I greeted her enthusiastically.  But she was sick.  Really really sick.  She immediately lay down on the floor and started shaking…. Apparently she had just suddenly come down with a fever.  She had not been eating or taking medicines… The doctor showed up and she was immediately hooked up to an IV and rested…  Shes ok now, but I don’t understand why/how someone can be soo sick and then soo healthy and then soo sick again.  She was just so happy when she was healthy and I just want her to be healthy again.     

LYCEE GIRLS EDUCATION AND SHIPPENSBURG UNIVERSITY

I’ve mentioned Shippensburg University Honors Program in previous blogs and how we have been in contact regarding ideas of projects they could assist with.  Anyway, they came up with this marvelous idea that ended up being really successful. One of the issues in kante that was of particular interest to them was girls education.  Girls face many challenges in regard to education here because it is generally not viewed as essential for a girl to go to school.  Most attend primary school, some drop out and others move onto CEG (middle school).  This is the level where most girls drop out due to finances, lack of support at home, not enough time (girls do all the work at home), pregnancy, or harassment.  The remainder who make it past CEG level may continue into lycee (high school), but there are still challenges.  When I took my microscope to the high school for the science students to try out, the boys-about 60 of them- were allowed to come first, followed by the incredibly timid 7 girls.  Anyway, by and large, most girls have a more difficult time in school because boys are given privilege, as it is viewed to be their role to go to school, whereas the girls role is to be at home.  Anyway, one of the issues impeding girls education is lack of financial means- families will pay to have sons attend school, but not daughters.  So, SU Honors Program decided to host a masquerade ball with the goal of raising money for school fees.  I haven’t heard the detailed results yet, but I  have heard that the ball went well.  I’m so excited for these girls to have this so that they can attend school next year, with no worries of where they will find the money. 

PROMOHANDICAP

Everything is working well with PromoHandicap.  The SPA (small project assistance) grant aspect will begin in a few weeks, once the money arrives.  With this, we will start construction of the water pump, latrine, and shower area.  The second aspect of the project, which entails construction of the school and dormitory, is still in the preliminary phases.  The PCPP (peace corps partnership p-something) is online and we are collecting donations for this.  The whole project is never ending, and I feel tired all the time, but at the same time it’s so exciting. I love this group- everyone (knock on wood) works so well together and makes a real effort to attend the weekly “up-date” meetings we have.  I’ve spoken about this project in previous blogs, so I won’t go into details, but if you are interested in the project or would like to donate, please visit: https://www.peacecorps.gov/index.cfm?shell=donate.contribute.projDetail&projdesc=693-396

NEW JOB: PERSONAL TRAINER

One day I was walking in Kante- I was in a hurry  - and its never a good idea to walk when you are in a hurry because you need to stop and talk to everyone you know who you see.  I actually like this, even though I still don’t like being too late.  Anyway, a woman stopped me in the street and asked if I go running every day.  She wants to start running, so we agreed to go running together every morning.  She is more of an early-riser than I am, so we compromise and go around 5:15/5:30.  I’ve sortof taken the role as personal trainer because she doesn’t really enjoy running, but wants to do it anyway.  We set goals and every day we go a bit farther.  My next idea is to teach her yoga.

MEDICAL ISSUE OF THE MONTH: INGROWN NOSE HAIR AND MANGO ALLERGY

Somehow, I find this more embarrassing than any of my uncontrollable gastrointestinal illnesses.  I guess peace corps does strange things to your perspective of sickness and health.  Anyway, I had this nasty ingrown nose hair.  It felt like my nose had transformed into one of those clown noses – or Rudolph the red-nosed reindeer noses.  If you had ever had an ingrown nose hair, then you would understand; and if you hadn’t, then good for you.

SWITCH UP THE NEIGHBORS

This month, my neighbors with all the kids moved.  Maxime, Solange, Adele, the baby (Je connais) all left.  So, my compound and house are so quiet now- all the time.  There are new neighbors though, and they have some kids, but most of them are scared of me, I think..haha.  But, I am slowly convincing them that I am nice by having movie nights and sharing food.. so we’ll see.  It is funny watching movies with the kids.  They explain it to each other (they’re all in English).  For example, when watching the Lion King, they were saying that the hyenas were sorcerers who are after Simba (they now know all the main characters’ names). 

HOT SEASON

We are in the middle of hot season now.  It really drains the my energy.  The worst is when I am at home for lunch and need to leave around 2something to go somewhere.  It is just so hot and sunny.  I seriously  sweat all the time.  I have a fan, but I cannot imagine what it would be like without a fan.  The only seemingly good thing about hot season is that it is also mango season.  But, I can’t eat mangoes because I’m allergic.  The only thing on earth that I’m allergic too…  I ate one a week ago and still have the mango rash around my mouth.  But, c’est la vie.  Another aspect of hot season is camel spiders.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solifugae  They are really big and super fast and apparently carry scorpions, which makes them even more scary.  I haven’t seen one in my house this year, but whenever I walk around at night, I am always worried.

Chicken Soup for the Togolese Soul? I think not! try: Spicy Fishy Bony Beans and Rice for the Togolese Soul

FEBRUARY: ­Chicken Soup Spicy Fishy Bony Beans and Rice for the Togolese Soul

February got off to a running start, working on the grant proposal for PromoHandicap, preparing for the women’s conference, all the other activities, and with everything else happening in the month, February seemed unending, until it finished with a bang and a case of strep throat. 

PROMOHANDICAP

Every week, Alisha and I have been working with PromoHandicap.  Our proposals for the projects were due at the end of February, and we spent so much time going over them- again and again.  I never thought I would spend that much time on my computer in Togo.  Alisha and I have chosen to start a school- build a school and dormitory for this group.  I was in charge of the Small Project Assistance (SPA) proposal and work.  SPA is a grant provided for Peace Corps volunteers by USAID.  So, I wrote a proposal for this grant for the drilling of a water pump, construction of a shower area, and 2 latrines.  Simultaneously, Alisha wrote a proposal for PCPP for the construction of a dormitory and school.  PCPP will put this project on a website, and we will solicit donations from our lovely friends and family.  We just found out both projects were approved!  This is so exciting.  So, the SPA project, of which I am the leader, will begin once the check arrives, probably in late March/early April.  April and May will be incredibly hectic with construction projects, and I imagine I will be over at the site for the majority of the time.  (Unfortunately, that’ll also be the worst of hot season).  Then, In June, construction will hopefully begin on the dormitory and school.  During all this time, Alisha and I, with the PromoHandicap crew will be doing educational trainings in the community- about hygiene, water, the rights of handicapped individuals, and the importance of education.  I’m already exhausted after all the work for the proposal, and thinking of all the work ahead makes me more exhausted, but at the same time, I am incredibly excited.  I am so happy to be working with PromoHandicap and so excited to be able to give them the means to really take education of handicapped children to the next level.  Tomorrow, the work with this group continues- we are meeting with the chief of the whole Kanté area to explain the project again, make sure we have his support, and ask him to mobilize community members to start collecting sand and gravel for construction.  It is the small things like this that really make me understand the importance of living here for at least a year before understanding things.  There is no way a volunteer could come in and immediately understand the culture and know the people and hierarchy and method you must use to get things done.  But, it is so amazing to see this come into being. To be able to take all the little knowledge and understanding of the community, and apply it to a project so that the project moves and ends up fulfilling an important basic need of the community.

DIRECTRICE OF PEACE CORPS VISITS KANTE

For the first time, the directrice of peace corps-Togo decided to visit Kanté!  It was so exciting, and also a bit nerve wracking.  I am used to just mosying along, doing my own thing, having kids run around in/out of my house, walking over to visit Pauline at AED or whoever, and basically not being stressed.  So, when the executive secretary called, asking about lodging in Kanté and informing me of the schedule and expectations of her visit, I felt a little bit nervous.  Lodging and food in Kanté, and my house, are by no means fit for a directrice.  Lack of plumbing, doors that are broken, dust, heat, food, lack of hand washing areas…. Everything I thought of seemed insufficient.  But, she was coming one way or another.  The visit actually went well.  There were some problems with the hostel, and some problems with the restaurant, but she was able to meet PromoHandicap, observe them teaching the children who are deaf, and visit the site of the future school. 

HEATTTTT

Hot season has begun.  About the middle of February, you could feel the sun just burning your exposed skin, even with suntan lotion.  And, you began sweating constantly.  Nights don’t cool down anymore, and I am left lying with minimal clothing on my cot, ensuring that no part of my body touches another part.  Usually the fan is pointed directly at me, ensuring that the constant sweat dries as soon as possible after touching air.  But, ironically, hot season is the time of year for electricity problems, and many times, the fan does not work, leaving me to just lie and sweat.  This is when I really feel like a peace corps volunteer.  Nights when the electricity doesn’t work, lying on my cot in the dark, windows and doors opened to allow for any possible breeze, just dripping in sweat and waiting…  you can’t sleep, you can’t read, you can’t move.     

WOMEN'S EMPOWERMENT CONFERENCE (WEC)

In early march, women from the two northern regions of Togo, Kara and Savans, will get together to learn about health and all this other good stuff.  It’s a huge deal, since women usually work from before dawn to after dusk taking care of the family.  So, this month, we have been preparing for this one week.  A bunch of Peace Corps volunteers got together in the beginning of June to hammer out the schedule and make it work, and since then, I’ve been working on preparing my own individual parts.  I’ll be in charge of a about nutrition and also one about germs, and will be helping with a session about communicating with your significant other about family planning.  I helped develop the menu; we’ll be using local foods, but are planning to cook it in new ways to increase the nutritional value and give women ideas on how to use available ingredients – and do some cultural exchange (one of the meals will be a burrito/taco type thing).   And, at each meal, we’ll go over what we’re eating so the women understand exactly what it is and why it’s good for your health.  I’m super excited.  I really like being a part of something like this; it would be incredibly difficult and not nearly as effective to do something like this on my own- but as a group- it’s just really fun- because everyone, with their individual expertise/talents/ideas can put this whole thing on.  I’ll let you know how it goes in the next blog.   

HEALTH ISSUES

Throughout the month, I had random things that I attributed to either dust (sty in my eye) or heat (weird rash), but at the end of the month, after I submitted the PromoHandicap SPA proposal, I just dropped.  Not literally- but energetically- I guess.  Anyway, I was just soooo tired, and slept for most of 3 days, until I woke up, felt like 100% crap, and called the med unit.  After some awkward phone calls of “can you see your throat in a mirror?””hold on, it’s dark, I’ll go outside””ok, I’m outside, all my neighbors all staring, but I can see my throat in the mirror””what does it look like?””It looks red”... it was figured out that I had strept throat.  Although there’s no test, (unless I wanted to go all the way to Lome) I guess the symptoms were pretty obvious.  SO, I grabbed a moto, sped over to the pharmacy, and bought amoxicillin.  Before I knew it, I felt much better, and soon, the strep throat was gone.  My neighbors were worried about me, though, and every day, as I was sleeping, a kid would appear by my cot “Mary Mary Mary”  “ughhh… bonjour” “Mary, mama gives this to you” I look down and see a bowl of beans, sometimes with rice “Oh, merci beaucoup” and sure enough, it was some incredibly fishy beans, with the little fish bones still in it.  I had no appetite and the fishiness of the smell did not stimulate even the smallest craving of food, but I ate it none the less, sharing it with Poppy the dog and Buster the cat.  Sometimes though, my neighbors would call Poppy to come over and give him some of the leftover rice to eat.  Poppy, obviously, knew he had better food at my house, so he would stay and eat the fishy beans.  But, I would freak out- I didn’t want the neighbors coming over to see why Poppy wasn’t responding to their calls, only to find him eating the fishy beans that had been given to me.  So, I pretended to be angry with Poppy, threatening to hit him and kick him, until he was scared enough to leave the house.  Then, I secretly set aside some of the fishy beans for when poppy came back after eating with the neighbors.  This plan seemed to work.  I don’t think my neighbors ever realized that Poppy ate most of the food that had been given to me.     

MALARIA ACTION COMMITTEE

So, the World Health Organization (WHO) contacted the malaria action committee and wants to work together, which is exciting!  Nothing is really set, and ideas are still getting tossed around, but we'll see what happens.  Also, Beau and Katie and I have been working on the neem lotion project-in-a-box for this committee, including a video of how to make neem lotion.  So prepare yourselves- the video might go on you tube, and you will all learn the wonders of neem lotion.  

OTHER THINGS…

AED, Club Espoir, lycee work, and girls soccer club, have all been going on.  I’ve nominated Pauline, the pharmacist at AED, for the women’s conference, and I know she’ll really benefit.  She does home visits to many of the HIV/AIDS patients, and I know she’ll forward all the information to those patients.  Also at AED, Rabi, the little girl who was so sick- just skin and bones- months ago- is actually chubby!!!!!  I almost didn’t recognize her!  She smiles and talks, and has fat on her face!  Club Espoir has been ongoing- this month, we discussed volunteerism.  This was a concept I was unsure about-unsure how it would be understood, but it worked out well.  I also went back to the hospital this month.  It had been months since I’d been there to work, and it was like coming home- I knew everyone and understood how things work and everyone knew me.  I think I will plan to go there more often – at least whenever I have a free day.  I had stopped because I felt not needed and in the way- but going back, it made me realize I can just because I want to go; I don’t need to be needed.  Anyway, that may not have made sense, but point it: I like the hospital.    

THE CAVES

In the north of Togo, in the Savans region, there are giant rock mountains with caves carved out.  I took a trip up there with some other volunteers to see them.  What I didn’t realize was that we would be hiking up this rock mountain- in the blunt sunshine.  It was so hot and sunny- it felt like we were hiking to the sun- not just towards it.  The heat and sunshine was intense, it felt like we were all going a little been crazy from the sun- singing and laughing about nothing and everything.  The caves were really interesting and beautiful though.  People had carved them out of the side of the rock mountain as a secure place when the tribes were fighting, and now they are a UNESCO site.  It made me miss hiking and big rocks, though.  I can’t wait to get back and hike Old Rag again in Shenandoah…  

   

RANDOM OTHER THINGS:

I met a French guy who owns a park here – his house is a freakin winery in Tuscany.  Not really- but it reminded me of Tuscan wineries. 

Also, I sat in a helicopter- there was a random helicopter near the park and I was allowed to sit in it.  So, I took a picture.

Also, there was a plane crash many many years ago.  The late president of Togo survived the crash, and as a result, the government left the wrecked plane exactly how it crash-landed and built a huge building around the site with a giant statue of the late president.  I visited this place this month.  It was interesting, but so weird.   In the middle of poverty and nothingness, there is a giant gorgeous building and a plane wreck… hmmm… whatever floats your boat, Togo.  

When did it become 2012?

December and January were incredibly busy months.  Some real projects picked up and I went home for Christmas and New Years!  It is so strange to think that this year, 2012, will be the year that I leave Togo.

MALARIA ACTION COMMITTEE!!

In Togo, about 50% of deaths of kids under 5 are caused by malaria. But, malaria elimination has not been one of the main goals of peace corps-Togo – until now!   And, I’m really excited to be part of the Malaria Action Committee (MAC).  That statistic came from our first job as committee members- getting a survey from every volunteer in Togo and discussing the data at a meeting/training.  At the meeting, we also set up the goals, objectives, and action plans for our group and discussed how Togo can really get involved in eliminating malaria.  Togo is sort of an ideal country for this initiative because it is so small- and there are so many Peace Corps volunteers (PCVs).  I think if Peace Corps really get involved – and every volunteer gets involved- the malaria situation can improve significantly.  Right now, we are working on preparing and organizing small “projects-in-a-box” that can be done by every PCV with minimal training, organizing our information on the healthcare systems here, finding the means to media and PR stuff, and writing and preparing a new and improved survey.  There is another blog site specifically for the Malaria Action Committee.  It can be found at:   Like I said, I’m super excited about this; it almost makes me wish I could stay in Togo longer ….but that’s what every PCV says “first year is rough, second year is exciting and fun and projects start to work...”

CUTBACKS

One day, at a peace corps training center in Pagala, the country director called a meeting of all volunteers who were present.  She began talking about the budget and how “changes” were going to be made.  The somberness of her speech made me think that she was announcing that Peace Corps would be pulling out of Togo.  Luckily, that was not the case.  Instead, she announced that the SED (Small Enterprise Development) program was getting cut.  This is a huge deal for Peace Corps Togo.  Togo only has 4 programs: CHAP (health), SED (business), EAFS (environment/food security), and GEE (girls education).  So if one program is cut, our population diminishes significantly.  Instead of having the 100-PCVs who were in country when I arrived, we will be having like 80 or something.  It changes the whole training schedule too- and villages – Which villages will continue to have a PCV and the tons more that will not get a PCV again.   

PROMOHANDICAP

“Assaham” can always be seen at the truck station running around, making gestures, and once in a while getting food or money from a passer-by or the local vendors or the mechanics that are familiar with him.  He may be the physically dirtiest kid you have ever seen – you can practically see the layers upon layers of dirt and dust.  When he sees me, he always runs up to me, making noises through his smiling mouth, and holding his dust-covered hand out, anticipating our handshake.  Last time, he had a bandage on his arm – I wondered what happened- hoping it was maybe an accident and nothing done intentionally by another.  You can’t ask him what happened because he can’t hear what you’re saying.  He’s one of the many hearing- and visually- impaired kids in Togo.  Many families in Togo are poor, and a child like may just be viewed as an extra burden, being unable to go to school or work or help around the house.  This leads to many kids who are neglected and abandoned, who grow up in communities where they are mocked and abused.  Over ten years ago, a missionary who we’ll call Mr. T noticed this in the villages around my town, and decided form a group dedicated to educating and assisting these children.  Along with a few others, Mr. T gathered some kids, found a room to rent, and began teaching whatever could be taught.  Since then, this group PromoHandicap has grown and is now a recognized organization in my prefecture.  The community helps out once in a while- donating supplies or money, but recently, the debt has grown too much and they were kicked out of the rented room.  Now, the children are in Mr. T’s own home.  So, Alisha and I and the PromoHandicap group, are hoping to build a school and dormitory for these kids.  Over November, December, and January, we fit tons of meetings into our packed schedules and most recently brought the project idea to our country director for feedback.  She is completely on board- and we are really excited because we are one step closer to making this idea a reality.  I love this group.  I think they are the most genuine and hardworking group I’ve met in Togo – and you can see the needs and what this project will do for the handicapped community- It’s such a good opportunity and – like MAC, almost makes me want to stay in Togo longer.  We will plan to have the official proposals submitted at the end of February and then have the project online and receiving donations ASAP after that.  SOOOOO- if you – or anyone you know- is interested in helping this project succeed- let me know!  I cannot wait to see their faces in a couple months when we tell them the project can be done. 

SCHOOL ISSUES

Contrary to the well-stated words of Notorious B.i.g. “mo money mo problems,” and the inferred theory of less money less problems, Togolese teachers and students have begun expressing their idea of less money = more problems.  Strikes are common in Togo.  A couple times since I’ve been here, the hospital has gone on strike because they have not been paid (by the government).  Teachers of primary, middle, and high schools have also gone on strike for the same reason: no salary.  However, recently, school strikes (and now riots) have real effects.  A few months ago, the teachers went on strike for a few days and then resumed.  So, when my neighbor’s kids told me that the teachers were on strike again, I thought nothing of it.  Until the strike continued and people began speaking of school being “finished”.  Rumor was: that if they don’t get paid, school will be done for the year.  However, little by little, teachers returned.  And now, most teachers have decided to go back and teach, even though rumor again has it that they still aren’t being paid the full amount.  We will see what happens; there are still people saying that it’s possible that they will go on strike again in February.  In the same domain of education and unrest, in December, university students marched and rioted in Kara and Lome.  Usually, students receive a stipend/scholarship to attend school, which is used to live, but lately the government stopped paying students.  Hence: the riots.   Students marched down the streets, blocking traffic and yelling.   Over the course of a few days, the riots became violent, and universities were shut down and has just reopened last week not reopened since.  I sort of have strong opinions about this whole situation, but I won’t post them online- if you are interested and you know me, then ask.   

AED UPDATES

“My baby just had the results of the final test.  She’s not sick; she’s not sick!  She’s normal!  It’s finished!  God has given!  Another round of drinks!”  The bartender brought everyone another beer or soda.  The staff of the HIV/AIDS group had gathered to celebrate my return from the US, the New Year 2012, and now, Pierrette, the president of the group was announcing that her daughter Marie Reine was officially HIV-negative.  Everyone cheered “A la santé!”  and continued drinking.  I looked over at the newest member of the group, Nazarine, who was born in October, and wondered about her status.  Will we find out she is HIV-negative too?  Or will she grow into a young girl carrying the virus, eventually succumbing to AIDS….  There’s another young girl- about 11 years old – who has AIDS.  I can’t stand to think of Nazarine like that.  The girl is skinny- incredibly-skin-and-bones-skinny.  She walks very slowly like she is having trouble balancing herself on her skeleton body.  She smiles sometimes; I think I’ve seen her smile twice – and I can’t and don’t want to picture Nazarine growing into an AIDS patient like her.  Nazarine is the chubbiest, happiest baby I have ever seen.  She is like a baby Santa Claus.  (Which actually sounds sort of scary, so maybe erase that image from your mind)?  She smiles a two-toothed smile, makes a lot of baby noises when you talk to her like she can actually understand, and laughs – like really laughs.  It’s hilarious to watch; she opens her mouth wide so you can see the tips of the two front teeth that are just arriving, lifts her face up and back like the force of the laughter can’t keep her head in its normal position, and lets out this huge baby laugh.  Then, if it’s an especially big laugh, she gets the hiccups, like her body was just shook by this earthquake laugh and now is getting little hiccup aftershocks.  I usually end up cracking up too, and so does Clementine, her mother. 

POPPY and QUI SAIT

While I was gone, poppy and qui sait got into trouble.  They killed more pintades (guinea fowl/like a chicken).  The owner of the pintades luckily did not kill poppy and qui sait, but gave them a warning: a cut on their leg; a scar to remind them.  So, I have been keeping the dogs cooped up.  I know the only reason poppy is not dead yet is because I am white – the foreigner/ the VIP in village.  I just hope that Poppy will be safe until I leave and take him to the US.

ENGLISH CLUB

Although I’ve been super busy, I was able to meet with some of the kids in the English Club and was really proud of what they did over the strikes and their holiday break.  While I was away on vacation, they had meetings about gender equality, the environment, and the importance of girl’s education.  They talked to the principal to get trashcans for the school- and they succeeded in getting cheap trashcans made.  They formed an “environmental police” group who will monitor the trashcans, and make sure people use them.  I can’t believe they did all that!  On their own initiative!  I’m so excited about that.  Think: the school for the years and years and years of being there, did not have trashcans and instead had piles of trash covering the grounds.  Now, my English club kids have installed trashcans and they are actually working! Crazy. 

HOME!!!!!!!!!

I honestly don’t think I can succinctly write about how excited I was to go home and everything that I did and everyone I saw and everyone I wished to see but couldn’t.  But, I did go home- for about 2.5 or 3 weeks- and had the most amazing time.  I was so happy and just felt “whole” being with my family again.  Christmas was amazing, New Years was fun, and all the friends I was able to see were wonderful.  I can’t believe everything that has changed-houses engagements babies careers! – and everything that is still the same – never failing family/friendships J