Monday, April 2, 2012

Mango Rash


March was hot, but busy.  Hot season is usually the time that most work gets done because no one can work in the fields yet.  I worked with other volunteers on the women's conference, continued work with PromoHandicap, did some random meetings in schools, had a marvelous vacation in Ghana (the land of plenty), and dealt with hot season.  

WOMEN'S WELLNESS AND EMPOWERMENT CONFERENCE (WWEC)
The Women’s Conference took place over a couple days in March and was incredibly busy and stressful but so good.  20-some women came from the northern parts of Togo (Kara and Savannes regions) to learn about self-esteem, family planning, sexual health, nutrition, hygiene, savings and budgeting, gardening and animal husbandry, and so many other things.  My sessions were a nutrition session, an introduction to microbes session, and a “how to negotiate family planning” session.  In addition, I was in charge of the kitchen, along with another volunteer.  This specific job ended up being the most difficult of all. My favorite session was microbes.  I started by having 4 cups of water in the front of the room and 2 volunteers from among the group of women.  I asked them to take some water to drink.  One glass had plain water, one sugar water, one salt water, and one really gross muddy water.  One of the volunteers had picked the salt water (which I made sure was saturated with salt), and her expression after sipping it was hilarious- everyone started laughing; I wish I had a camera.  The meals were the most difficult part of the whole conference.  When making the menu, we wanted to use the same ingredients that almost all women use, but in a different way.  For example, all women know pasta and sauce, and all women know fried tofu (its sold on almost every street corner, so to speak).  But, they never eat tofu that has not been fried.  So, one of our meals was pasta with sauce that contained crumbled tofu (like ground beef).  Anyway, we tried to do similar things with every meal, and the majority of the women like most meals- and all of them understand different ways you can prepare and eat different ingredients to have a more health-conscious diet.  Anyway, the kitchen, on the other hand, was less understanding.  They were not used to being on a rather strict schedule (with an actual time that lunch had to be ready) and then different ways of preparing took incredibly long to explain, because they were accustomed to doing things only one way.  To complicate things further, the main cook was incredibly scared of his boss, a religious sister who was the manager of the whole conference center and lodging.  So anytime we wanted to discuss a meal with him, or just ask if he understood what we were saying, he would say “go talk to the sister”.  One meal in particular was burritos.  Although they had a copy of the menu weeks in advanced and we had asked if they understood things, they apparently still waited until the actual preparation of the meal to really understand.  For the burritos, we used corn flour (which every women uses every day) to make corn tortillas.  However, the kitchen staff did not know how to make corn tortillas.  So, just 3 hours before the meal, I was in the back giving a lesson on how to make corn tortillas.  Luckily I knew how to make them-haha..  I felt bad, because you can only make one at a time, and we needed enough for 40-some people.  But, it ended up working.  Overall, I really liked the kitchen staff and was glad to work with them.  We seemed to be butting heads all the time, because our menu was so strange and specific and they were used to doing the same meals again and again- but I think we both appreciated that the other was also stressed but trying their best.  By the end of the couple days, I just ended up preparing every meal with them, which made it sortof stressful when I had to give presentations at the same time- haha..  But,overall, the conference was great- the women learned a lot, bonded with one another, and it was so good to see all this hard work and stress transform into a successful event.         

GHANA- LAND OF PLENTY
Fellow PCV Kristine and I decided to go to Ghana; it would be my last vacation as a peace corps volunteer.  Our plan was packed: 6 days, 4 towns, and some beach time.  Seeing that this is west Africa, there were plenty of opportunities for massive problems, but somehow we had luck on our side, and coasted through Ghana without problems- until the end.  We planned to cross the Togo-Ghana border in the north, head to Tamale, stay the night in the Peace corps transit house there, travel south to Cape Coast, get a ride to Elmina, and stay there for three nights before leaving for Accra and finally Lome.  Our luck started before the first step, when we found out that the missionaries who live in Kara were already planning to go to Tamale, the first stop.  Tamale is a huge town by Togo standards, and much more developed and organized that towns in Togo.  We stayed in the Peace Corps transit house and met a few Ghana PCVs.  Their house is soo much nicer than any place in Togo.  And Transportation is so much easier that Togo; you don’t need to argue for every single small amount.  The next day, we took a bus down to Cape Coast and then a taxi to Elmina.  Going through the country was interesting; I was continually impressed by the development of Ghana:  the nice paved roads, the houses, the many construction projects.  In Elmina, we stayed at a cute small beach side resort called the Stumble Inn. It was soo cute- and cheap- it reminded me of the Red Monkey Lodge in Zanzibar.  We ate tons of cheese and drank tons of beer and just relaxed (and I studied for the MCAT).  Elmina and Cape Coast are sortof famous for the slave castles which we visited.  They were beautiful- completely gorgeous old intricate castles designed and built by the Portuguese and Dutch and changed by every other nation that at one point had control.  Ironically the Europeans discussed the construction project with the locals and got permission from the local chiefs before construction. The castles were used for trade of goods… and later for trading slaves.  We walked through the rooms, visiting each room where locals were imprisoned, waiting to be sent on a ship to Europe or America.  Women were often raped, and apparently if they were found to be pregnant on the ship, they were tossed overboard and left to drown… because no one would want a slave with a baby.  I specifically remember going into one room.  It was dark and stuffy and hot with rock walls.  Slaves were put in there if they tried to escape- and they were kept their until they died.  Standing in that room, looking at the scratches on the walls, breathing in the stuffy hot air…  it was creepy..and truly sad.  After visiting the slave castles and spending some quality time on the beach, we went to Accra, and finally returned to Lome.  Accra is so frustrating.  Up until that point, we had been having food    

AED
One day at consultations, everyone was laying around fanning themselves, waiting for the doctor to arrive, when a moto drive up and Rabi got off.  The last time I had seen Rabi, she was super healthy, with even a little extra chubbiness to add.  So, expecting the same, I greeted her enthusiastically.  But she was sick.  Really really sick.  She immediately lay down on the floor and started shaking…. Apparently she had just suddenly come down with a fever.  She had not been eating or taking medicines… The doctor showed up and she was immediately hooked up to an IV and rested…  Shes ok now, but I don’t understand why/how someone can be soo sick and then soo healthy and then soo sick again.  She was just so happy when she was healthy and I just want her to be healthy again.     

LYCEE GIRLS EDUCATION AND SHIPPENSBURG UNIVERSITY
I’ve mentioned Shippensburg University Honors Program in previous blogs and how we have been in contact regarding ideas of projects they could assist with.  Anyway, they came up with this marvelous idea that ended up being really successful. One of the issues in kante that was of particular interest to them was girls education.  Girls face many challenges in regard to education here because it is generally not viewed as essential for a girl to go to school.  Most attend primary school, some drop out and others move onto CEG (middle school).  This is the level where most girls drop out due to finances, lack of support at home, not enough time (girls do all the work at home), pregnancy, or harassment.  The remainder who make it past CEG level may continue into lycee (high school), but there are still challenges.  When I took my microscope to the high school for the science students to try out, the boys-about 60 of them- were allowed to come first, followed by the incredibly timid 7 girls.  Anyway, by and large, most girls have a more difficult time in school because boys are given privilege, as it is viewed to be their role to go to school, whereas the girls role is to be at home.  Anyway, one of the issues impeding girls education is lack of financial means- families will pay to have sons attend school, but not daughters.  So, SU Honors Program decided to host a masquerade ball with the goal of raising money for school fees.  I haven’t heard the detailed results yet, but I  have heard that the ball went well.  I’m so excited for these girls to have this so that they can attend school next year, with no worries of where they will find the money. 

PROMOHANDICAP
Everything is working well with PromoHandicap.  The SPA (small project assistance) grant aspect will begin in a few weeks, once the money arrives.  With this, we will start construction of the water pump, latrine, and shower area.  The second aspect of the project, which entails construction of the school and dormitory, is still in the preliminary phases.  The PCPP (peace corps partnership p-something) is online and we are collecting donations for this.  The whole project is never ending, and I feel tired all the time, but at the same time it’s so exciting. I love this group- everyone (knock on wood) works so well together and makes a real effort to attend the weekly “up-date” meetings we have.  I’ve spoken about this project in previous blogs, so I won’t go into details, but if you are interested in the project or would like to donate, please visit: https://www.peacecorps.gov/index.cfm?shell=donate.contribute.projDetail&projdesc=693-396

NEW JOB: PERSONAL TRAINER
One day I was walking in Kante- I was in a hurry  - and its never a good idea to walk when you are in a hurry because you need to stop and talk to everyone you know who you see.  I actually like this, even though I still don’t like being too late.  Anyway, a woman stopped me in the street and asked if I go running every day.  She wants to start running, so we agreed to go running together every morning.  She is more of an early-riser than I am, so we compromise and go around 5:15/5:30.  I’ve sortof taken the role as personal trainer because she doesn’t really enjoy running, but wants to do it anyway.  We set goals and every day we go a bit farther.  My next idea is to teach her yoga.

MEDICAL ISSUE OF THE MONTH: INGROWN NOSE HAIR AND MANGO ALLERGY
Somehow, I find this more embarrassing than any of my uncontrollable gastrointestinal illnesses.  I guess peace corps does strange things to your perspective of sickness and health.  Anyway, I had this nasty ingrown nose hair.  It felt like my nose had transformed into one of those clown noses – or Rudolph the red-nosed reindeer noses.  If you had ever had an ingrown nose hair, then you would understand; and if you hadn’t, then good for you.

SWITCH UP THE NEIGHBORS
This month, my neighbors with all the kids moved.  Maxime, Solange, Adele, the baby (Je connais) all left.  So, my compound and house are so quiet now- all the time.  There are new neighbors though, and they have some kids, but most of them are scared of me, I think..haha.  But, I am slowly convincing them that I am nice by having movie nights and sharing food.. so we’ll see.  It is funny watching movies with the kids.  They explain it to each other (they’re all in English).  For example, when watching the Lion King, they were saying that the hyenas were sorcerers who are after Simba (they now know all the main characters’ names). 

HOT SEASON
We are in the middle of hot season now.  It really drains the my energy.  The worst is when I am at home for lunch and need to leave around 2something to go somewhere.  It is just so hot and sunny.  I seriously  sweat all the time.  I have a fan, but I cannot imagine what it would be like without a fan.  The only seemingly good thing about hot season is that it is also mango season.  But, I can’t eat mangoes because I’m allergic.  The only thing on earth that I’m allergic too…  I ate one a week ago and still have the mango rash around my mouth.  But, c’est la vie.  Another aspect of hot season is camel spiders.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solifugae  They are really big and super fast and apparently carry scorpions, which makes them even more scary.  I haven’t seen one in my house this year, but whenever I walk around at night, I am always worried.

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